Diving with whales is one of the most extraordinary experiences the planet has to offer; take this activity to a little-known French Polynesian isle, and it becomes an incomparable adventure. Rurutu, the gem of the Austral archipelago, is dotted with limestone caves and is steeped in culture and honest smiles. Even though it's just a short one-and-a-half-hour flight south from Tahiti's Faa'a International Airport, it is completely off the tourist
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